Tag Archives: Sugar

Setting the Bar High

Before we begin, let me get this out of the way. The last time I made marshmallows, I swore I would never do so again.

They’re sticky. And exacting. And, truth be told, unless they’re charred within an inch of life, I don’t really enjoy them that much. Okay, that might be overstating it, but I don’t enjoy them nearly enough to go through all of that effort to make them from scratch when there’s a perfectly good fall back option.

And, yet, here I was doing just that.

Because, I make things complicated.

There, I said it. In black and white print for all of the world to see.

And, now for the rationalization. You knew this was coming, right? This weekend, I’ll be hosting my Summer Picnic. It’s the third year, and I’m setting the bar high. It’s becoming a tradition, albeit one that’s slightly earlier this year, owning to some travel plans. Still.

The first year was all about learning the process. It was small, partially on the theory that if I charred the pork or made a mess of things, then it was easy enough to order pizza for 9 people. I think about these things.

Last year. Well, what is there to say about last year? A gathering of nine became a gathering of almost thirty. There were menu additions. And, eight pounds of pork devoured within the first hour.

Not content to rest on my laurels this year, I’m setting the bar high. Which means, in practical terms that the cooking has started. As has the culling of new recipes. When I saw a recipe for S’mores bars it seemed just thing.

Except that I cannot leave well enough alone. The thought process went something like this, If I’m already making the brownies, why wouldn’t I make the graham crackers, too?

I’m told that rational people don’t have thoughts like this, let alone act on them. Me? I was getting out the standing mixer and soon after covered in fluff. In case you’re wondering, I have gelatin at the ready, for situations such as this one.

Will my guests notice the from scratch difference? Hard to say, although I’m sure that I’ll be pointing it out each time someone takes a bite of something (I’m a great host, I swear).

One last thing, before we get to the recipe—having tasted the homemade marshmallows again, I’ll say this: They’re good. Really, really good..

Worth the effort in fact.


David Lebovitz

2 envelopes (17g) powdered gelatin or 17g sheet gelatin (8 to 10 sheets)
1/2 cup (125ml) + 1/3 cup (80ml) cold water
1 cup (200g) sugar
1/3 cup (100g) light corn syrup
4 large egg whites (1/2 cup, 110g), at room temperature
pinch of salt
2 teaspoons vanilla extract or 1 teaspoon vanilla paste

Marshmallow Mix
One part corn starch (or potato starch), one part powdered sugar (about 1 cup, 140g, each)

In a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over the 1/2 cup (125ml) of cold water to dissolve and soften. If using leaf gelatin, soak the leaves in about 2 cups (500ml) cold water.

In a small saucepan fitted with a candy thermometer, mix the sugar and corn syrup with 1/3 cup (80ml) of water. Place over medium-to-high heat.

(Note that you will use this saucepan twice, to make the syrup and melt the gelatin, eliminating the need to wash it between uses).

In the bowl of an electric mixer, pour in the egg whites and beat on low speed until frothy. Add the pinch of salt.

When the syrup reaches about 210ºF (99ºC), increase the speed of the mixer to high and beat the whites until they are thick and fluffy.

When the syrup reaches 245ºF (118ºC), slowly pour the hot syrup into the whites, pouring so that the syrup does not fall on the whisk since some of the syrup will splatter and stick to the sides of the bowl.

Scrape the gelatin and water into the pan that you used for the syrup, or put the gelatin sheets and 2 tablespoons of the water into the pan and swirl it to dissolve. (There should still be residual heat left in the pan from making the syrup in it to dissolve it).

Pour the liquified gelatin slowly into the whites as they are whipping. Add the vanilla extract or paste and continue to whip for 5 minutes, until the mixture is feels completely cool when you touch the outside of the bowl.

Dust a baking sheet evenly and completely with a generous layer of the marshmallow mixture. A sifter works well for this purpose. Make sure there are absolutely no bare spots.

Use a spatula to spread the marshmallows in a layer on the pan. Allow to dry for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight, uncovered.

Put about 1 cup (140g) of the marshmallow mixture into a large bowl.

Dust the top of the marshmallows with some of the marshmallow mixture. Use a pizza cutter or scissors (dusted as well with the marshmallow mixture) to cut the marshmallows into any size or shape pieces that you’d like and toss the marshmallows in the marshmallow mixture. Shake the marshmallows vigorously in a wire strainer to remove the excess powder.

Alternatively, you can dust a baking sheet and put scoops of the marshmallow on it, and let them cool.

Makes 25-50 marshmallows, depending on marshmallows, depending on how you decide to cut them



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Any idiot*

Right now, the dishwasher needs emptying. My laundry—clean, at least—remains piled, waiting to be put away. There are bills, unpaid. All the quotidian things that fill up one’s day. And, yet, I can’t bring myself to tend to them. I feel like writing.

I’m going to say that again: I feel like writing.

It’s been a long time.

Too long.

What happened was this: first, I was busy just generally being busy. Somewhere along the line, I stopped cooking all that much. I stopped writing before then. After hours spent in front of a computer screen during the day, I couldn’t do it. Couldn’t do much of anything.

Or better stated, any idiot can face a crisis—it’s day to day living that wears you out.*

They say it takes 30 days to establish a habit and almost no time to break it. So, no sooner than a friend—an editor, no less—had complimented my writing, it all but stopped. We don’t talk about these things.

In the same way we don’t talk about how adding just a hint of cinnamon makes chocolate, making it taste like a truer version of itself. Coffee will do the same. If you bake enough, you just know.

So, what happened was this: walking through the Union Square Greenmarket a few weeks ago, the scent of the stone fruit was overwhelming. Luscious, fragrant, the very essence of summer. And, suddenly for the first time in more than a month, I felt like getting out the kitchen scale. A small thing, really. Sort of, anyway. And, as luck would have it, owing to the generosity of a friend who, having heard me talk about wanting to make lavender ice cream had sent me some of the flowers, a recipe was born.

Did you know that adding just a hit of lavender to stone fruit will make the fruit the best version of itself? Truer, more floral.

Well, now you do.

Stone Fruit and Lavender Crostada

For the Pastry:
1 cup flour
3 TBS sugar
1/4 tsp salt
8 TBS butter (1 stick)
Zest of 1 lemon
1/4 tsp lavender

For the Filling:
1.5 lbs peaches, plums, apricots
juice of 1 lemon
1 TBS sugar
1 TBS flour

For the pastry:
Sift the flour and salt in a large bowl, adding in the sugar, lavender and lemon zest, stirring to combine. Using a pastry cutter, cut in the butter and the water until the dough is pebbly. Then, turn the dough out onto a well floured surface, rolling it into a ball and flatten into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for an hour. While the dough is chilling, make your filling and preheat your oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit.

To assemble the filling:
Cut the peaches, apricots, and plums into wedges and place them in a bowl. Toss with the juice of a lemon, 1 TBS flour, and 1 TBS sugar. Set aside.

Assemble the crostada:
Roll the pastry out into a 10-11″ circle on a lightly floured surface, then transfer it onto a parchment lined baking sheet. Using a fork, piece the dough to allow air to escape. Place the fruit in the center of the dough, allowing for an inch border on all sides. Fold the border of the pastry over the fruit, pleating it to form an edge.

Bake 425 degrees Fahrenheit for 25 minutes. Cool to room temperature before serving.

*with thanks to Chekhov

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Repeat Offender

I know what you’re thinking, more cookies. Particularly now, when we’re all supposed to be concerned with eating healthy and losing weight? You could certainly be forgiven for having no patience with me.

Excerpt for this: these lime meltaway cookies are so good that I made them twice in a week.

The first time, for my mother’s birthday I served them alongside a rich chocolate cake (rest assured, I’ll get to that recipe, too). The cake was delicious, and yet, these cookies stole the show. The lime keeps them just shy of being decadent, preventing them from becoming too cloying. After all, there’s a fair amount of sugar in the recipe.

And the texture.

It goes without saying that cookies called “meltaways”, um, melt in your mouth. They’re shortbread’s sophisticated cousin, quite and unassuming with a taste that lingers at the end, just slightly. Although, if you want a more crunchy outer texture, you can finish them with sanding sugar, rather than confectioners’, as I did with part of round two.

Either way, these lime meltaways are the perfect cookie to have alongside your post dinner coffee, and they’d be equally at home in a holiday cookie box. In other words, file this recipe away for the 2012 holiday season. They’d be perfect, too, as they’re essentially ice box cookies. So, you can make them ahead and store them in your freezer as you’re prepping the rest of your cookies.

So, as per usual, I’m out of step. You can’t really be surprised, though, given that I cooked a Thanksgiving meal two weeks after the holiday and host a “Summer” picnic each October. And, maybe sending your friends and family boxes of cookies post holiday is just the thing they need to get through the winter doldrums.

Lime Meltaways
Recipe Courtesy of Martha Stewart’s Cookies

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/3 cup confectioners sugar, plus another 2/3 cup if you’re coating the cookies in confectioners’ sugar* (Otherwise, you’ll need 1/4 cup sanding sugar)
Zest of 2 limes, grated
2 TBS fresh lime juice
1 TBS vanilla extract
1 3/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 TBS cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon coarse salt

Cream butter and 1/3 cup confectioners’ sugar until it is pale and fluffy. Add the lime zest, lime juice and vanilla, and mix until fluffy.

Whisk together flour, cornstarch, and salt in a bowl. Add to butter mixture, and mix until just combined.

Divide dough in half. Place each half on an 8-by-12-inch sheet of parchment paper. If you’re using sanding sugar, roll the formed logs in the sugar to coat it at this point. Roll in parchment to form a log 1 1/4 inches in diameter. Refrigerate logs until cold and firm, at least 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Remove parchment from logs; cut into 1/4-inch-thick rounds. Space rounds 1 inch apart on baking sheets lined with parchment paper. Bake cookies until barely golden, about 13 minutes, rotating sheets halfway through. Allow the cookies to cool slightly, 8 to 10 minutes. If you are coating the finished cookies in confectioners’ sugar, while the cookies are still warm, toss cookies with remaining 2/3 cup sugar in a resealable plastic bag.

Cookies can be stored in airtight containers at room temperature up to 2 weeks.

Makes approximately 3 dozen cookies

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…which is why I am telling you about it

Last night, coming home on the R train, I saw these guys. I was quietly reading a manuscript when I was distracted by loud yelling. My first thought wasn’t a generous one.

Then, I listened.

They were performing Lear. Which just so happens to be my favorite play. (Make of that what you will.)

I’ve been harping on as of late with predictions of how 2012 is going to be a good year—the truth of that matter is that this has more to do with 2011 being—how to say this—kind of lackluster. Nothing bad happened, yes. And, for that I am grateful. But, in a lot of ways it felt like nothing happened at all, which is not to make light of some fairly significant changes. More to say that, surface changes notwithstanding, there was a lot of waiting for things to realign and feeling a bit like the ever elusive brass ring was just that. That’s the problem with having too many expectations, I suppose.

There’s no big explanation coming about why I’m going to share this recipe with you today.

It’s just that I was reminded last night of how much I loved many things, generally and New York City, particularly.

Partly because it’s the kind of place where you can hear Shakespeare on the subways.
Partly because it’s where elevated train lines become parks.
Partly because it’s where writers like Frank O’Hara are made.
Partly because it’s the kind of place that has bakeries where you can get cookies that taste like fresh corn and blueberries and cream.

In other words, a place of the unexpected. Which may be just the thing.

The recipe for blueberries and cream cookies is below.

And, in other news: I’m back to quoting Shakespeare and Frank O’Hara. If you know me, this means I’ve likely gotten about fifty percent more pretentious and annoying than usual in your estimation.

I couldn’t be more pleased.

Blueberry and Cream Cookies
Recipe courtesy of Momofuku Milk Bar by way of Serious Eats

For the Cookies
16 tablespoons (2 sticks, 225 grams) butter, at room temperature
3/4 cups (150 grams) sugar
2/3 cups (150 grams) light brown sugar, tightly packed
1/4 cup (100 grams) glucose or 2 tablespoon (35 grams) corn syrup
2 eggs
2 cups (320 grams) flour
1/2 teaspoon (2 grams) baking powder
1/4 teaspoon (1 1/2 grams) baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt
1/2 recipe Milk Crumb (recipe follows)
3/4 cup (130 grams) dried blueberries

Milk Crumb
1/2 cup (40 grams) milk powder
1/4 cup (40 grams) flour
2 tablespoons (12 grams) cornstarch
2 tablespoons (25 grams) sugar
1/2 teaspoon (2 grams) kosher salt
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick, 55 grams) butter, melted
20 g milk powder 1/4 cup
3 ounces (90 grams) white chocolate, melted

To Make the Milk Crumb: Heat the oven to 250°F.
Combine the 40 grams (1/2 cup) milk powder, the flour, cornstarch, sugar, and salt in a medium bowl. Toss with your hands to mix. Add the melted butter and toss, using a spatula, until the mixture starts to come together and form small clusters.

Spread the clusters on a parchment- or Silpat-lined sheet pan and bake for 20 minutes. The crumbs should be sandy at that point, and your kitchen should smell like buttery heaven. Cool the crumbs completely.
Crumble any milk crumb clusters that are larger than 1/2 inch in diameter, and put the crumbs in a medium bowl. Add the 20 g (1/4 cup) milk powder and toss together until it is evenly distributed throughout the mixture.

Pour the white chocolate over the crumbs and toss until your clusters are enrobed. Then continue tossing them every 5 minutes until the white chocolate hardens and the clusters are no longer sticky. The crumbs will keep in an airtight container in the fridge or freezer for up to 1 month.

For the Cookies: Combine the butter, sugars, and glucose in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and cream on medium-high for 2 to 3 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, add the eggs, and beat for 7 to 8 minutes.

Reduce the mixer speed to low and add the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Mix just until the dough comes together, no longer than 1 minute. (Do not walk away from the machine during this step, or you will risk overmixing the dough.) Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula.

Still on low speed, add the milk crumbs and mix until they’re incorporated, no more than 30 seconds. Chase the milk crumbs with the dried blueberries, mixing them in for 30 seconds.

Using a 2 3/4-ounce ice cream scoop (or a 1/3-cup measure), portion out the dough onto a parchment-lined sheet pan. Pat the tops of the cookie dough domes flat. Wrap the sheet pan tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or up to 1 week. Do not bake your cookies from room temperature—they will not bake properly.

Heat the oven to 350°F.

Arrange the chilled dough a minimum of 4 inches apart on parchment- or Silpat-lined sheet pans. Bake for 18 minutes. The cookies will puff, crackle, and spread. After 18 minutes, they should be very faintly browned on the edges yet still bright yellow in the center; give them an extra minute or so if that’s not the case.

Makes 15-20 cookies

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This one’s going to be good

Truth be told, I really don’t like candy corn all that much. Or, certainly not enough to warrant spending several hours making it from scratch. And, yet, that’s exactly what I’m going to tell you about.

Stay with me, here.

This is where things get good. And, where I admit that I made the candy corn simply because wanted a reason to tell you about this photo:


It may not be immediately apparent, but in this photo, my sister is dressed like Belgium. Yes, Belgium. Just go with it. You can tell on account of the Fleur-de-lis that adorns her dress (I don’t buy it, either).

I’m America. You can tell because I’m wearing gingham. And, because of my really, really big hair which is barely contained by the puritan style bonnet.

There’s a long and complicated story behind the costumes, but essentially, what you need to know is this: my mother and aunt went to a sleep-away camp when they were growing up in the 1960s. These costumes are from those days. My mother kept them and, every year, my sister and I would get excited to break them out for the holiday.

The year before we were Iran and Iraq. Those costumes consisted of big pants, bikini-style tops and head scarves. As I write that it occurs to me that it must have been a mild fall on the east coast that year. Also: that, evidently, there was no such thing as political correctness in the 1960s.

It was only years later that it occurred to me that dressing up like a country wasn’t a typical Halloween costume and was, frankly, a little weird. The tip-off came from old photos of the Countrywood Elementary School Halloween parade. All of us kids would come to school dressed up in our costumes and parade around the parking lot so our parents could admire us. There I am in all of the pictures, flanked by my classmates who are dressed as pumpkins and princesses. I’m in my gingham dress with my Puritan bonnet. I can only imagine what the other adults must have thought when I told them I was America. I was such a happy-go-lucky (translation: “lacking in total common sense and unaware of social cues”) child, that it didn’t even occur to me that it was odd at the time. Of course, I found the photos during my too cool for everything early teen phase. So, in the interest full disclosure, this is now one of those stories that I tell every Halloween. And, as I slowly overcome my adult aversion to dressing up, I’m considering investing in a new gingham dress.

When I called my sister to ask her if I could share the photo with all you, she had one stipulation: You can post it, but only if you also mention the year that our mother paid us so that we didn’t have to go trick-or-treating. Of course, that’s a whole different story for a different time.

For now, enjoy this candy, and have a happy Halloween!

Candy Corn
Recipe courtesy of Serious Eats

1 cup granulated sugar
2/3 cup light corn syrup
1/3 cup salted butter
2 1/2 cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted
1/3 cup powdered milk
1 tsp vanilla
red and yellow food coloring

In a medium sized bowl, combine the sifted confectioners’ sugar and powdered milk. Set to the side.

In a medium saucepan, combine the granulated sugar, corn syrup and butter. Bring to a boil on high heat, stirring constantly. Once it reaches the boiling point, reduce heat to medium and continue stirring for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the vanilla extract and remove from heat.

Add the confectioners’ sugar and powdered milk mixture to the wet ingredients; stir well until the mixture is thoroughly incorporated and smooth.

Let the dough cool until it is firm enough to handle, about 30 minutes to an hour.

Divide the dough into three equal parts and set each third into a separate bowl. Add 2 to 3 drops of yellow food coloring to one dish, one drop of red and two drops of yellow to another dish, and leave the remaining dish uncolored. Knead the dough to which you have added food coloring until the color is even, using gloves (I used sandwich bags. Which looked ridiclous, but did the trick). If the dough is feeling very soft or sticky, you may want to chill the dough for about 20 minutes in the refrigerator before proceeding with the next steps.

On top of a sheet of waxed paper or parchment paper, use your hands to roll each color of dough into a long, slender rope. You can roll it out to your desired thickness: for larger candies, make each rope thicker; for smaller candies, make each rope thinner.

Line the three ropes of dough together: white, orange, and yellow. To ensure that they will stick together, lay a piece of waxed paper on top and give them a very gentle rolling with a rolling pin. You just want to adhere them, not to flatten them.

Using a very sharp knife, cut the dough into triangles. Keep a damp cloth nearby so that you can wipe off the knife if it begins to get a candy residue. This method will result in half a batch of traditionally colored candy corn and half a batch with yellow tips. Let the finished kernels sit for an hour or two (do not stack them on top of one another as they will stick together!) to become firm.

Makes enough to give you plenty of cavities

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And, to you.

I never did get around to finding that perfect apple cake recipe to start the New Year.

Instead, my Rosh Hashona went something like this: Sleep. Temple. Midday nap. Family dinner. [repeat].

There was reflection, as is usually the case at this time of year. But, by the second day, I was ready to do something more.

For me, that usually means, going into the kitchen.

While I was inspired to bake, but not the aforementioned apple cake. Instead, my thoughts turned to another quintessential Jewish (at least in my mind) treat: the black and white cookie. Perhaps it was seeing the grocery store version on my parents’ dining room table—a last minute purchase to satisfy a craving, no doubt, and one that left me thinking, I could do it better.

And, I could.

This sounds arrogant, I know. But, don’t be fooled.

These cookies only look impressive. They’re actually unbelievably easy to make. First, you whip up moist buttermilk cakes, just slightly sweet and with a light crumb, that take minutes to bake up, and, while they’re cooling you mix your icing. In no time at all, you’ll have a new holiday recipe. Or, a new go-to cookie even if it’s not your holiday.

Either way, may your days be marked with sweetness.

Black and White Cookies
Recipe courtesy of Gourmet, by way of Epicurious

Note that I’ve adapted the recipe slightly, to make smaller cookies as I’ve always found the bakery size to be a little too large. If you want bakery size, place measure the batter out with a 1/4 cup, set the cookies 2 inches apart on your baking sheet and bake for 15-17 minutes instead. The measurements and instructions remain the same otherwise.

For cookies:
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup well-shaken buttermilk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/3 cup (5 1/3 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg

For icings:
1 1/2 cups confectioners sugar
1 tablespoon light corn syrup
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon vanilla
1 to 2 tablespoons water
1/4 cup unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder

To make the cookies:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

Whisk together flour, baking soda, and salt in a bowl and set aside. In another bowl, stir together buttermilk and vanilla.

Cream the butter and sugar in a large bowl with an electric mixer about 3 minutes, until it is pale and fluffy. Next, add egg, beating until combined well. Mix in flour mixture and buttermilk mixture alternately in batches at low speed (scraping down side of bowl occasionally), beginning and ending with flour mixture. Mix until smooth.

Spoon 1/8 cups of batter about 1.5 inches apart onto a buttered large baking sheet. Bake in middle of oven until tops are puffed and pale golden, and cookies spring back when touched, 12 to 15 minutes.

Take the cookies off of the baking sheet, and transfer onto a wire rack or room temperature plates, allowing the cookies to cool.

To make the icings:

While the cookies chill, stir together confectioners sugar, corn syrup, lemon juice, vanilla, and 1 tablespoon water in a small bowl until smooth. Transfer half of icing to another bowl and stir in cocoa, adding more water, 1/2 teaspoon at a time, to thin to same consistency as white icing.

To ice cookies:
Turn cookies flat sides up, then spread white icing over half of each and chocolate over other half. Allow the cookies to sit for at least an hour before serving to give the icing time to harden.

Makes 16 cookies

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When it Works

Sometimes, I get it right.

Lately, not so much.

If you’ve been following along this Summer, then you’ve repeatedly read about how that it’s been a busy one—unplanned in many ways. That’s always the case, I suppose.

I’m rolling with it.

Monday night, after my apartment was back in order and the leftovers from the Last Hurrah Brunch were all stowed away, it struck me that it was, indeed, the last hurrah.

Insightful, I know.

In a feeble attempt to hold on to the season a little longer, I even attempted to use the air conditioning one last time, just because I could.

It turns out that I couldn’t—again, I’m being really deep here.

What I mean is simply that, with the change of season, I think that change is in order, generally.

My friend Peggy recently posted her own version of a back-to-school list, and while I’m keeping mine closer to the vest, I’m running with the promise of fresh starts that seems to go hand and hand with early fall.

In that spirit, I’ll be posting recipes from the last brunch soon, but for now, I want to share a recipe inspired by the school lunches of my childhood. Really, what could be more quintessentially back to school than fruit roll-ups?

Consider this version a reinvented nostalgic version, scented as it is with vanilla, cinnamon, a nutmeg.

Don’t be put off by the time it takes to dry out the fruit—its a reason to loaf at home as the weather gets colder and catch up on some reading. I, for one, cannot think of a better way to spend a cool, crisp fall afternoon.

Fruit Roll-ups

Apple Fruit Roll-Ups
Inspired by Food Network Magazine

1 large Apples, peeled and chopped (I used Mitzu)
1/4 cup light brown sugar, tightly packed
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 tsp cinnamon
1 TBS lemon juice
1 TBS vanilla
1 pinch nutmeg

Vegetable oil, for greasing your baking sheet

In a blender, combine the apples, sugars, cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla, and lemon juice. Puree the mixture until it is completely smooth.

Move the pureed apple to a saucepan and bring it to a summer over medium-high heat. Be careful as it might splatter. Once it is at a simmer, lower the heat, to medium-low and cook, stirring periodically — more often towards the end — until most the liquid evaporates, making the mixture very thick. This will take 35-45 minutes.

While you’re stirring the apple puree, preheat the oven to 200 degrees F. You should also line a 8-by-13-inch rimmed baking sheet with a foil that is coated with oil or a Silpat baking mat.

When the apple puree has sufficiently thickened, pour it onto your baking sheet, using a spatula to spread the fruit on the mat or foil into a thin layer. Bake until barely tacky, 3 hours to 3 hours, 30 minutes.

Transfer the baking sheet to a rack and let the fruit leather cool completely. Peel off of the mat or foil, being sure to check that the fruit leather has no moist spots. If the leather is still moist on the underside, return it to the oven, moist-side up, until dry, about 20 more minutes.

Once the fruit leather is completely dry and has cooled, lay it smooth-side down on a sheet of wax paper. Cut into cut it into strips using kitchen shears. Roll up the strips and store in plastic bags.

Makes 8 fruit roll-ups

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